Livonia Spray Foam InsulationClosed-Cell & Open-Cell Spray Foam · Air Sealing
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Air Sealing · Livonia

Air Sealing in Livonia, MI

Air sealing finds the hidden gaps where your Livonia home leaks air, and we seal each one so drafts and wasted heat stop.

❦1 day installs · typical timeline

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Air sealing being applied to gaps
Sealed and caulked air leaks
Open gaps and air leaks
What we install

Seal the Leaks That Make Your House Cold

Air Sealing Livonia homeowners need almost always starts with a simple problem. Warm air leaks out at the top of the house all winter, and cold air gets pulled in down low. That push and pull is the stack effect, and our cold Michigan months make it worse. You feel it as a draft by the floor or a room that never warms up. We find those leaks at the rim joist, the attic, and around every pipe and wire. Sealing them is often the cheapest way to make a house feel warm again. Pair this work with our attic insulation and the whole top of your home stops bleeding heat.

We start every job by finding the leaks, not by guessing. A blower-door test pulls air out of the house so we can feel exactly where outside air rushes in. We pair it with a thermal camera that shows cold streaks behind the walls. Then the air sealing begins. Small gaps get caulk, bigger ones get canned foam, and the moving parts like doors and the attic hatch get fresh weather stripping. Around hot flues and chimneys we use fire rated sealant so nothing near heat is a risk. Ducts that leak in the attic get sealed with mastic. Every gap has the right fix, and we work top down so the biggest leaks close first.

  • Stops the cold floor drafts that ruin a Michigan winter.
  • Cuts wasted heat so your furnace runs less and your bill drops each month.
  • Seals the attic, rim joist, and every pipe and wire.
  • Makes any insulation you add work harder by blocking the air first.
  • Keeps dust, bugs, and damp from riding in on leaking air.
Air sealing is the cheapest fix in the house, because heat you never lose is heat you never pay for.

We work all over Livonia and the rest of Wayne County, and the homes here give air leaks plenty of places to hide. A lot of our streets have houses built decades ago, with rim joists and attics that were never sealed right. We crawl the attic, check the basement, and walk the whole shell before we quote a number. When we find the leaks, we show you each one so you know what we are sealing and why. After the work, we can run the blower-door test again to prove the air loss dropped. If a spot still leaks, we seal it before we pack up. That is what good air sealing looks like.

If your floors stay cold or your furnace never rests, air leaks are likely the reason. Call us or send the form for a straight, free quote.

Materials

What a Real Air Sealing Job Uses

Good air sealing is less about one fancy product and more about using the right small fix in the right spot. For thin cracks we run a bead of caulk, the same kind that stays flexible through hot summers and cold winters. For wider gaps around pipes and wires we use canned foam that swells to fill the space. Doors, windows, and the attic hatch get weather stripping and foam gaskets so the moving parts still close tight. None of it is exotic. The skill is knowing which gap takes which fix, and getting to the hidden ones.

The hot spots need special care. Near a furnace flue or a chimney chase, we reach for fire rated sealant and foam, because normal foam does not belong next to that kind of heat. Leaky ducts in the attic get sealed with mastic, a thick paste that brushes on and dries hard. We also seal the top plates, the long wood beams where the walls meet the attic, since those seams leak more than people think. Good materials only matter if they land in the right place, so we map the leaks first and then seal each one by hand.

  • Flexible caulk for thin cracks and seams
  • Expanding foam for gaps around pipes and wires
  • Fire rated sealant near flues and chimneys
Close-up of sealed gap detail
Blower door testing installation
What about the alternatives?

Air Sealing vs Just Adding More Insulation

Here is how air sealing stacks up against the other ways Livonia homeowners try to fix a cold, drafty house.

Air sealing first, then insulate

This is the right order, every time. Seal the leaks first, then lay insulation on top, and each one finally does the job it is meant to do. Air sealing stops the draft. Insulation slows the heat. Together they keep a Livonia house warm for a lot less money.

Recommended

Insulation with no air sealing

Better than nothing. The catch is that air still slides through the gaps and right around the new insulation, so you pay for the upgrade yet keep a good share of the draft, and the room never feels as warm as the work should make it.

Acceptable

Caulking a few windows yourself

A fine weekend start. The problem is that your biggest leaks hide up in the attic and down at the rim joist, not at the windows, so most of the draft stays until a crew seals those hidden spots.

Acceptable

Turning up the thermostat

Skip it. This just pays to heat air that leaks straight back out, so the furnace runs and runs while the bill climbs and the cold floor returns. It chases the symptom and never the leak.

Skip
How it goes

From quote to walk-on, fast.

01

Free Estimate

We come out, assess your home or building, and give you a clear quote with no pressure and no hidden fees.

02

Schedule the Job

We book around your schedule. Most jobs start within a week and finish in a single day.

03

Prep & Protect

We mask off and protect your floors, furniture, and finishes before any foam goes down.

04

Apply & Trim

Our crew sprays the foam in even passes, then trims it flush so the surface is ready for the next trade.

05

Walk-Through

We walk every inch of the finished work with you before we leave so you can see exactly what was done.

Before you book

What Livonia Homeowners Ask Before Sealing

These are the questions we hear most before we start an air sealing job.

Yes. Older homes usually gain the most from air sealing. Houses built decades ago were almost never sealed at the rim joist or up in the attic, so the leaks are big, plain, and easy for our crew to reach once we get in there. We find them, seal them, and the change shows up fast in how your floors feel.
No. We only seal the leaks you do not want, like the random gaps that pull in cold attic air all winter long. The fresh air your home truly needs, such as the bath and kitchen vents, stays exactly as it is. A tighter house after air sealing lets you control airflow on purpose instead of leaking it everywhere.
You can handle the easy spots. Caulk around a window is a fine start. The trouble is that the leaks costing you the most money are the hard ones, tucked up in the attic, behind the walls, and along the rim joist where you need a light and a crawl to even find them. Our crew gets to those and seals what a caulk gun alone will always miss.
Aftercare

How Air Sealing Holds Up in Livonia

Air sealing is close to a one time job once it is done right. Caulk and foam stay put for years, and there is no schedule to redo the whole house. What can change is the house around the seal. When a home settles, or someone runs a new pipe or wire, a fresh gap can open. Big swings between our humid summers and freezing winters can also work a bead of caulk loose at a corner. None of that is a crisis. A quick look once in a while catches a new leak early, and a small touch up seals it back up.

  • Check the attic seals after any new wiring or plumbing work
  • Watch for fresh drafts after a hard freeze or a long heat wave
  • Look at door and hatch weather stripping every couple of years
  • Reseal any spot the rim joist opens up if the house settles
  • Run a blower-door test again if bills creep back up
Thermal imaging showing air leaks
Before and After We Seal the Leaks
FAQ

Air Sealing Questions From Livonia Homeowners

No two jobs price the same. We walk the space first, then quote based on what we actually find: the area, which foam type fits, what the substrate needs before foam can go down, and whether any bypasses need sealing while we are in there. The only honest number comes from that walkthrough. Call us or fill out the form and we will come out, look at the space, and give you a straight quote.
Two different materials, two different jobs. Closed-cell foam is dense and rigid, running around 6.8 R-value per inch, and it works as both an air barrier and a vapor retarder, so we use it in crawl spaces, rim joists, and any surface where outside moisture is pressing against the building. Open-cell foam is softer. It delivers around 3.9 R-value per inch, expands to fill wall bays and attic slopes in one pass, and also reduces sound through the wall.
Spray foam is a permanent install. Once it cures, it does not settle, shift, or compress the way batts and loose fill do over the years as Michigan winters and damp summers cycle through the building assembly. No retreatment schedule. If trade work later cuts through a sealed section, a targeted pass over the gap closes it.
Yes, though the mechanism matters. Spray foam stops air from moving through the gaps in the building shell, and it is that air movement, not just a lack of insulation depth, that forces your furnace to run long cycles all winter just to hold the temperature you set. We seal the rim joist, crawl space, and attic. Those are the main paths heat uses to leave a Livonia home in cold weather.
The spray zone stays closed while we work. For most rim joist and crawl space jobs, we ask you to stay out of that specific area through the cure window, which runs a few hours from when we finish spraying. Once the foam is fully cured it is stable and the vapor release is done. We tell you the exact window for your job before we start.
It depends on what is there. For attic floors where the existing material is dry, clean, and simply thin, we seal the bypasses first and add new depth on top of what is already in place. For wall bays, old insulation needs to come out so the foam can bond to the framing on all four sides. We check every job on the walkthrough and tell you straight whether the old material stays or goes.
A few hours for most jobs. The exact window depends on which surfaces we sprayed and how much foam went down, so we tell you the specific time before we leave the site rather than giving you a guess. Crawl space and rim joist jobs are usually on the shorter end since those areas sit away from the living space. We do not leave until you know when you can return.
Yes, with a simple step. The two parts that make up spray foam release vapors while the material is curing, so we ask everyone to stay clear of the spray zone during the job and through the cure window, which runs a few hours for most residential jobs. Once fully cured, the foam is stable and inert. For most Livonia homes the work happens in a crawl space, attic, or rim joist that is already separate from the living area, so managing the window is easy.
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